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Guides

How to repot an orchid (Phalaenopsis)

May 16, 2019 by Helen Allen Leave a Comment

To have the best chance of successfully repotting orchids, it is best to know what of orchid it is so that you will it’s growth patterns. There are two main types of growth patterns for orchids, and the methods for each are slightly different. There are the Monopodial and the Sympodial kinds of orchids.

Repotting Monopodial orchids

Re potting Monopodial orchids

Monopodial orchids like the Moth orchid are notable for having stems that grow upwards. Each year one or two leaves grow at the top of the stem while older leaves eventually drop off.

Best time to repot

Best time to re pot

For Monopodial orchids repot when the lower leaves have dropped off or died. It would help if you aimed to repot every two years between the spring and fall.
It would help if you never tried to repot Monopodial orchids when these are in bloom, do it as soon as the flowers drop off.

Materials required to repot
Potting medium (shop brought or homemade)
Rubber or latex gloves
Scissors and a new razor blade, pruner
A pot (check size and material)
Label
Recipe for pot medium

Here is one of many pot medium recipes, experiment until you find one you like:
Five chunks of fresh fir bark
1 part gardening charcoal (barbeque charcoal does not work)
1 part perlite/sponge rock

Pick your pot

Pick your pot

Picking a suitable pot is key for any repot to work. The size needs to be right, too small and the plant will be cramped, too big and the roots will rot as the pot will hold too much water.
Also, it would help if you decided between plastic and clay pots. If you can spare the extra money for clay use clay pots as orchids will grow larger and can fall out of plastic pots. Roots will not rot in clay pots either.
If you reuse pots clean them out with bleach and water, allow 2 hours for plastic pots to dry and two days for clay pots.

Take the plant out of the old pot

 Take the plant out of the old pot

Grab the plant by the stem and gently lift it out of the pot, break the pot if you have to.

Remove the old pot medium.

Remove the old pot medium.

It would help if you made that the maximum amount of the old medium is removed from the plant by gently shaking it. If bits are stuck rinse with tepid water.

Remove dead leaves and stalks.

Remove dead leaves and stalks.

Carefully using your hand or the pruner remove all dead leaves and stalks from the plant.

Remove dead roots

Remove dead roots

Take the new razor blade to remove dead roots; you can these are dead if they feel hollow. If the entire source is gone, then remove the whole of it.

Prepare the new pot

Prepare the new pot

Sprinkle the bottom of the pot with a layer of pot medium.

Put the plant into the pot.

Put the plant into the pot.

You can now put the plant in the pot, laying the roots underneath, the bottom leaf needs to be just above the top of the pot.

Put in the potting medium

Put in the potting medium

Now fill the rest of the pot with the potting medium, gently press into place.

Label your plant

Label your plant

Put the full Latin name on to the label, so you know what plant it is if you need help and advise about it.

Write the month and year of when you have repotted the plant, and also the date it flowers. If a plant has not bloomed in 3 years, then throw it away or see if someone else can grow it better.
Attach the label on to the pot or the plant and make it is not lost. More committed orchid growers will keep log books too.

Watering the plant

Watering the plant

When the orchid is first repotted it will need to have plenty of water, some people even put the whole pot into a tub or larger container for an hour. Do not use cold water as it will harm the roots; using tepid water is the best option as it causes no harm at all. Always avoid watering with water containing ice cubes as this kill orchids or any other type of plant. Cold water harms plants just like sharp frosts will do.
The watering needs to be done thoroughly so that all the pot medium has been soaked. Once the whole plant is watered then make sure excess water is removed to prevent roots rotting.

About Monopodial Orchids

About Monopodial Orchids
  1. When it comes to roots sticking out of the pots that is a normal thing to happen with orchids. With other plants, it would be reason enough to be alarmed about the health of the plant. Orchids are different as the roots will grow in any direction to get the water and nutrients needed.
    Orchids also have aerial roots to take moisture out of the air, to go with the random way the roots grow.
  2. Orchid roots grow large, and they twist around things, again nothing to worry about. It is how their roots grow and spread in the wild, where there is more room to expand. There are little pockets too in the origins that trap nutrients.

Often it is not the roots that persuade people to repot orchids. Instead, it is the potting medium, or at least how its breakdowns. Fresh pot medium is suitable as it absorbs water but allows excess amounts to be drained away once it breaks down into smaller parts it retains water.



Filed Under: Guides

How to Make a Succulent Turtle

May 13, 2019 by Helen Allen Leave a Comment

Recently when searching through social media, I came across a Succulent Turtle somebody else had made. It was actually a topiary design yet it set the thought in motion that there would be a way to have a Succulent Turtle in any garden.

The materials used to make a Succulent Turtle.

Materials needed

Most of the materials needed will not cost a lot, buy from your nearest dollar store during the gardening season or buy via Amazon.

12-inch wire
4 – 4-inch clay pots
A small roll of chicken wire
Sphagnum Moss

Succulent of your choice (Hen and Chicks will do nicely). An old plastic pot (or plastic sheeting), some washers and wire. Snips to cut the wire.

Materials needed Hen and Chicks succulents

Guide to making the Succulent Turtle Topiary :

Measure out a square of chicken wire a little larger than the basket. Proceed to fill the basket with soil and water then put landscape fabric (coir would do) over the top to prevent anything coming out of the basket. The belly is fixed with florist wire and the washers.

Guide to making the succulent turtle topiary

Then fix the wire mesh to the rim of the basket before attaching the 4 legs to it. The two front legs do not have to be equal distances away from the rear pair of legs.

Guide to making the Succulent Turtle Topiary

The head was formed by rolling chicken wire into a head shape, while the tail was made by shaping wire to look like a flattened cone. Some of the sphagnum moss was used to stuff both the head and the turtle. Then head and tail were attached to the body, making sure the head is raised to avoid having a moping turtle.

Plant your new Succulent turtle

Plant your new Succulent Turtle

After making the Succulent Turtle the next step is to plant it.

You will need to slash the landscape fabric or coir (the coir is harder to cut through) and put the plants inside the turtle.

Plant your new Succulent Turtle

There is the option to paint the legs or cover them with some of the moss aside from just leaving them as they are. That could depend on what plants you have planted as these should be colorful enough.

If you opted not to paint over, or cover the legs in moss, then the turtle could look a little plain until the plant’s flower in spring or summer. Just be patient as once the flowers come into bloom the turtle will look even cuter than when you finished making it.

To make sure that your Succulent Turtles attracts plenty of attention and admirers plant it full of plant types that produce colorful flowers. Plants such as begonias are ideal for turtles, especially in the summer months. Nobody would have thought that a turtle’s shell could be so bright and cheerful.

All in all, it can be amazing what you can achieve with 4 small clay pots, a roll of chicken wire, a bit of moss and some water. Just add your imagination and begonias to have a really Succulent Turtle ready for the summer.

Filed Under: Guides

How to grow a Lady Slipper Orchid

April 25, 2019 by David Rheem 1 Comment

Lady slipper orchids (Technically speaking: Cypripedium)
The lady slipper is a hardy plant and can grow in the wild without the attention of Theodore Horstmann or Nero Wolfe. In the past, it was necessary to put on your boots, get out that hiking pole and prepare for a day in the woods if you hoped to see one of these stunning beauties.

Today, you can enjoy your lady slipper wildflower easily in your garden, and you can do it just as quickly without the long hikes – of course, if you like long walks, good for you. They’re healthful and can always be interesting. (Unless you run into a bear. That’s just a little too interesting!)

Cypripedium species are native to most of North America as well in many parts of Europe. You can grow your lady slipper orchids in your garden where they make interesting as well as beautiful additions to anyone woodland garden.

As with many flower species, there are many varieties. Some of these are on the endangered species list. However, there remain plenty of species that can be obtained from reputable nurseries and garden suppliers.

• Pink Lady Slipper

Pink Lady Slipper

  The pink lady slipper (C.acaule) boasts deep pint flowers about three inches in length and offer a slightly sweet aroma. This flower blooms from late June through most of July.

• Yellow Lady Slipper

Yellow Lady Slipper

The showy yellow lady slipper (C.calceolus) blooms I early spring. It is to be found mostly in the rich woodland forests or along the grassy edges and elevated areas of bogs. It has a counterpart as well, the greater yellow lady slipper (C.parviflorum pubescent). This orchid can grow to a height of two feet tall with substantial six-inch wide petals.

• Showy Lady’s Slipper

Showy Lady’s Slipper

The showy lady’s slipper (C.reginae) is another of the species’ larger plants. It can be got from one to two feet in height and grows naturally in bogs, swamps, wet leas, and damp woodlands. It is a white flower streaked with pink, and it blooms in late spring or early summer.

• White Lady’s Slipper

White Lady’s Slipper

The white lady’s slipper (C.cadidum) is smaller, reaching from 5 to 12 inches in height. This particular species is considered endangered, but it may be available from a reputable nursery, one that understands your desire to help keep it alive.

Growing Lady Slipper Orchids

Growing Lady Slipper Orchids

We have to present strong objection to your collecting and transporting lady slipper orchids from the wild. It may be performed on your own property or that of someone who permits you, but otherwise, it’s usually challenging to transplant lady slipper orchids.

If you do transplant some from your garden, please try to save as much of the roots and surrounding soil as you possibly can. Be aware however that it is challenging to transplant slipper orchids with any degree of success.

It’s better, in the long run, to rely on a commercial grower. Once home, it would help if you tried to recreate the same conditions that mimic their natural environment. i.me. Shady woodland. When choosing a site in your garden, you’ll want a well-ærated soil and moist conditions.

Avoid planting them in full sunlight or very dry conditions. Dappled sunlight beneath tall trees should be ideal for growing your lady slipper wildflower.

Here are some directions that should be helpful:

1.Using your hands, or barring that, a trowel, carefully remove some of the soil from around an already-established lady slipper in the fall. Be extremely careful not to damage the plant or its roots. The roots of this plant are near the surface of the soil because they spread horizontally from the crown. They may extend from 12 to 18 inches. If the growing tip is damaged the root dies and your plant will only produce a few unsatisfactory roots each year.

2. Place only a handful or two of soil (not more than half a cup) in a clean glass jar. It unused plastic zip-top bag. It is essential as the lad slipper orchid can’t germinate outside laboratory conditions unless they’re not in direct contact with microscopic soil fungus. (Rhizoctonia).

Unfortunately, lady slipper orchids, unlike many flowers, do not have a built-in food supply, so they need something to give them the energy to sprout and break through the seed coat. The fungus is the food required by the lady slipper seed, digesting the seed’s coat to allow it access to the nutrients in the roil and spout.

3. Clear a site that provides dappled shade away from the direct sunlight and the shadow of other plants.

4. Be sure to test the soil with a pH test kit. You want to have a neutral to slightly acid pH, say about 6.5. Then if you have clay soil, you’ll want to amend it with a compost of bark, perlite or coarse sand. You should keep the soil moist but not wet.

5. Next, you’ll add a layer of chopped dried oak leaves and pine needles. Work it gently into the surface with a shovel. Decomposing leaves encourage the growth of Rhizoctonia fungus. In the fall 1002 issue of Nature Plants Journal, germination is most successful when the site has a covering of forest litter.

6. You’ll want to mix the seeds with the soil in a jar. Use a commercial packet o the contents of one seed capsule form a mature plant. The soil will provide vital fungus and help distribute the tine seeds more evenly.

7. Broadcast the seed-soil mixture thickly over the area.

8. In periods of drought, you’ll need to water. Otherwise, let nature take care of the watering chore for you. The seeds take an extremely long time to germinate.
Don’t be discouraged by this. After about 18 months following sowing, your seeds will generally begin to sprout leaves. It can take up to five long years for the plants to fully mature.

Here’s a list of things you should have on hand before starting.

  1. Trowel
  2. Native soil from around an already-established lady’s slipper plant
  3. A small jar
  4. A soil test kit
  5. Lime or sulfur (this latter is optional)
  6. Compost, Perlite or sand (again, optional)
  7. Chopped oak leaves and pine needles
  8. A shovel

• Caring for your Lady Slipper Orchid

Caring for your Lady Slipper Orchid

One of the most important things to remember is to water your lady slipper wildflower. You should keep the soil moist, but not wet.
If you have chemically treated water, it’s better to let it sit for several days in an open container. Otherwise, you could water with distilled or rainwater. Lady slipper plants also like diluted balanced fertilizer once or twice between spring and early summer.
Use about a quarter of the standard concentration. Top dressing your plants with about 2 to 3 inches of shredded leaf mulch is also very good for them.

Filed Under: Guides

How to take care of your orchid cactus

April 22, 2019 by Helen Allen Leave a Comment

Orchid cactus is one of the best plants to grow around your home. They make the house look attractive by showing off their big, cup-shaped blooms hanging on the pots that you were planting. These plants usually shoot their flowers during the end of spring and are estimated to be 10-15 inches in width.

Hybrid cactus is highly recommended by many people thanks to the great beauty they add to the surroundings. The plants tend to shoot flowers in different colors such as yellow, red, white, orange, purple and many others. On your side, all you need is to ensure the cactus is well taken care of for you to enjoy its beauty around your home.

One way to ensure that your cactus is well-taken care is by pruning the stems to provide more space for light to penetrate. Ones you cut the extra stems, don’t toss them away since you can still plant them.

How to make it flower. If you want your cactus to blossom and yield freshly looking flowers, there are a few tips that you need to incorporate. They include;

• Go slow during the winter seasons

Go slow during the winter seasons

The winter seasons have favorable climates here the weather is cold with some rainfalls. As we all know orchid cactus can survive even during the harsh climate conditions since they can store water in their stems for a very long time. So, to avoid them overgrowing during the winter, go easy in maintenance.

Just water them in moderate and avoid fertilizing them during this time. If it is raining then avoid watering the plants at any cost. It should go on for about 8 to 10 weeks.

• Ensure there is enough light

Ensure there is enough light

Just like the rest of the plants, orchid cactus also require enough lighting for excellent growth. Therefore, wherever you opt to plant them, make sure there is enough lighting penetrating through. If they are on the outdoor area, ensure there is enough lighting reaching the plants but keep them shaded during the summer seasons as the high UV rays can damage and cause them to wither.

• Add Potash

Add Potash

Potash is a form of fertilizer which is added to plants to facilitate healthy growth. So, to ensure the orchid cacti can grow well and blossom accordingly, considers introducing this fertilizer at an early stage probably when the plant begins to shoot.

• Avoid constant moving during budding

Avoid constant moving during budding

Avoid movements ones the plant has started to develop buds since regular movement causes the change of the temperatures and light which may affect the blossoming flowers and buds. Ensure the temperatures are moderate during this stage of the plants.

• Change the pot

Change the pot

It is advisable that you repot the plants approximately 2-3 years after planting them. As the orchid cactus grow, they will need larger space hence the need to plant them to a larger area. Do not repot the plants when the buds are shooting or the flower blossoming as the movement again can damage them.

How to choose the right orchid cactus.

Not all plant sellers will have the right plants at the nursery. Therefore, it is crucial that you know what to look out for when buying your plants. Although initially the orchid cacti were known as epiphyllous, the plants are currently known as Nopalxochia. They come in two different kinds which are the hybrid and cultivars. Also, unlike before where the plants were known to bloom during the night, the new hybrids are also ideal for day time blooming.

The history of orchid cactus

The orchid cactus hybrids were grown in the southern part of Mexico. They are estimated to grow up to 4 ft in height although you can control its growth by cutting it to your preferred height. The plants require being grown in an area where there is enough brightness but far away from direct UV rays.

Tips for caring for Orchid cactus

• Water the plant

Water the plant

It is advisable that you water the plant all through the season except in winter where you are supposed to water sparingly depending on the climate. Always keep the soil moist throughout.

• Keep the humid and temperatures moderate

Keep the humid and temperatures moderate

Regardless of where you opt to grow the plants at, make sure the humid remain 50 to 60 percent always. The temperatures should range from 60 to 75 degrees F in room temperature and ones the plants start to bud, adjust the temperatures to 60 to 65 degrees during the day and 7-13 degrees during the winter nights.

• The soil

The soil

The soil is mixed in the ratio of 1: 1. Add one potting and one per lite.

• Fertilize the plants

Fertilize the plants

It would be best if you fertilized the plants from early in spring all through the fall. Ensure to add the fertilizer every two weeks. Liquid high potassium fertilizer is the best for orchid cactus, and you should dilute it half before adding to the plants.

• Propagation

Propagation

It is a great idea to propagate the plants when pruning in case you need to increase the orchid cactus in your home. So, cut about 4 to 6 inches of the stem for this purpose. Do this during the spring season.

How to grow orchid cactus

Orchid cactus also referred to as epiphyllous are known to produce yellow and white flowers. One unique character about these plants is that they bloom their flowers during the night. Unlike other plants, the orchid cacti require special care and process followed to enable them blossom well and survive in all seasons.

The following are tips to follow when growing the orchid cactus.

• Ensure the container you are planting these plants has holes at the bottom. Then add one part of peat, two pieces of uncouth sand and lastly one part of crushed lava rocks.

• Cut a portion of stem from an adult orchid cactus and dip it in a rooting hormone for about two weeks after the two weeks get the soaked stalks and place them in the peat mixture container.

• Ensure to water the plants moderately to facilitate the growth. However, don’t add too much water to a point where the peat will turn out all soggy. Ensure the soil remains moist.

• Ensure to fertilize the plants especially during the fall, spring, and summer to facilitate healthy growth.

• Keep on checking on the humid and temperatures of the plant since these two conditions affect its growth. The right temperatures should range from 45 to 75 degrees F.

• The other essential step to follow is pruning ones the plants begin to grow bushy. Pruning helps to create more space for the plant to breathe and even start the sprouting process. Take advantage of this stage to add more orchid cactus to your home by planting the pruned stems.

• Ensure the plants are in an area where there is no direct contact with UV rays but ensure there is ample brightness penetrating.

Best ways to grow orchid cactus

These plants suit best when in a hanging form where you can plant them in a basket or any hanging device that you refer to sue. The plant grows by spreading the stems which cover the pot hence making the area looking more glamorous especially when the flowers blossom.

Filed Under: Guides

How to Propagate Plumeria Cuttings

April 14, 2019 by David Rheem Leave a Comment

Here are a few suggestions you should bear in mind when you begin cutting plumeria stems for rooting, as well as for pruning plumeria plants too. Now, it doesn’t make a difference where you cut the stem. The only consideration here is your decision on just how long you want to make your cuttings.

Please! Equip yourself with a decent pair of really sharp pruners. And remember that diseases are easily transmitted to plants, so it’s vital that you sterilize the pruners after each use. With the proper pruners, you’ll get a good clean cut. .Be sure to cut them at an angle so water can’t settle into the open wound.

The next step will be to allow the wound to dry completely (curing) before trying to root it. This is an essential step to remember. Just leave it in a dry, protected place until the wound has completely healed (cured). This could be only a matter of days, or it could take over a week. In any case, just be patient. You can’t rush this step.

Rooting Plumeria Cuttings in Water

Rooting Plumeria Cuttings in Water

We ‘ve often been asked, “Can I root my plumeria I water?” We could say yes. But rooting plumeria in water isn’t always successful. You may end up with rotted stems.

If you have plenty of cuttings n hand, you might try this method and see how it works. But our best advice is to stick to rooting them in the soil.

Rooting Plumeria Cuttings in Soil

Rooting Plumeria Cuttings in Soil

It’s essential that you’ll want to use a clean pot for your plumeria cutting to avoid contamination.

Another thing to remember is that you should not use a large pot for your plumeria cuttings. A container that’s too large may cause you to overwater your plumeria cuttings. This may cause it to rot. We recommend a 4-inch pot for rooting. If you’re planting a larger stem, you might use a 6-inch pot.

Supplies You’ll Need

  • Cured plumeria cuttings
  • A blend of perlite, potting soil, and coarse sand is what we use, but you can buy a succulent soil mix.
  • A clean 4-inch pot
Supplies You’ll Need

Put the cut end of your plumeria cutting into the hole and pack the soil down around its base. Make sure that the soil is well-packed around the stem so it will stay put. Since the roots sprout from the bottom of the cutting, it isn’t necessary to plant your plumeria cutting very deep. Just make sure it can stand by itself.

Now’s the time to give the soil a good drink. You can water until it begins to run out of the drainage holes. (Never leave it in a tray of water). Next, find a protected humid location and sit back and wait for your roots to grow.

You’ll want to dust the cut end with a rooting hormone. Rooting hormone encourages the plumeria cuttings to grow roots. It helps speed up the root formation as well.

While it’s possible to root your cuttings without rooting hormone, you’ll have much better results when using it.

When you’re ready to plant, use your finger or a pencil to make a hole in the soil. If you choose to go without the rooting hormone, you needn’t worry about this.step. The object of making the hole is to keep the rooting hormone from being rubbed off when you plant.

How to Care for Plumeria Cuttings

How to Care for Plumeria Cuttings

Keep your plumeria cuttings in a humid locale while keeping your soil on the dry side. This will encourage the roots to grow. If you live where the climate, there’s no need to do anything. Leaving your pot outside and it should grow quickly. And the last thing to remember is to keep your cuttings out of the sun until they begin to develop.

If you live in a dry climate or want to root your plumeria plant cutting indoors, you should mist every other day or so with a plant sprayer to keep the air around your planting moist.

You won’t want to water the soil. It should be on the dry side. Too much water will cause your plumeria cutting to rot. Once new leaves begin to sprout from the top, you’ll know your roots are growing as well.   

How Long does it take for Plumeria Cuttings to Root?

This depends on the location of your garden. If you live in where the climate is arid, it’s going to take longer for your plumeria cuttings to root. If you’re in a more humid area and give the cuttings bright light (not in direct sunlight, however), the plants will root much more quickly. If conditions are perfect for your plumeria cuttings, then the roots should begin to sprout within a week or so.

It’s difficult for us to be more exact because the propagation process is dependent on many factors. The way you cut and where on the plant you cut. These are the two critical factors that will decide the fate of your new plants.

Three steps are necessary to ensure success. You’ll need a sharp paring knife or the very sharp pruning shears we hope you now have. Here are the three steps to ensure successful planting.

1. Find the Right Place for a Cutting

Ideally, you’ll want to find a cutting between 12 and 18 inches long. It should be a smaller branch sprouting out from the end of a larger branch. The larger the cutting, the bigger and better will be your propagation.

If that’s not available, a smaller cutting can be used as well. Just be sure the branch you choose is a healthy green, and it should be flexible. When you’re satisfied with the plant’s appearance, it’s time to make your cutting for propagation.

2. Your New Cutting

The cutting should be cut at something like a 45-degree angle. The cutting should be as smooth as you can make it.

The cutting should be made from its parent branch. This is important to remember. Hold the branch securely and make the cut clean and smooth. Once you have this in hand, you should make sure it has no little stems or leaves. When it’s done right, your cutting should look something like a pencil.

3. Let Your Cutting Rest

Once you have your cutting, just let it dry for a couple of weeks. One thing to look for is a callus a the bottom of the cutting. This is an encouragement for the stick to survive. Although sometimes without this little eruption has not impeded the root growth of the cutting but success if very iffy.

Be sure to plant your stick in well-drained soil. We use a blend of cactus mix, topsoil and sad. This organic mix is quite beneficial for the growth of healthy plants.

We would avoid the addition of any fertilizers until a few leaves have begun to form on the cutting.

A common mistake is to overwater the cutting. The soil should be on the dry side. Too much moisture is going to cause the cutting to rot. That would spell the end of your planting.

Caring for a plumeria plant is easy in that plumeria is very adaptable and doesn’t require a lot of attention. It should get at least six full hours of sunlight every day and water with fertilizers, and it will thrive.

Hopefully, this article will give you the knowledge and confidence to try propagating your own plumeria plant.


Filed Under: Guides

Choosing the Right Pot for your Succulents

April 8, 2019 by Helen Allen Leave a Comment

Selecting the right pot for your succulents. The pots and planters that you select can play an essential part in keeping your plants healthy. Knowing the best pot for differing kinds of plants and succulents is useful knowledge to hold, read on for tips that provide that information.

Whether or not you have ideas about the pots used to put your plants in it pays to have a good knowledge of the different planters and pots available for you to use. Now it should not just be how good a planter or pot looks that decide, which one that you pick.

Differing materials that pots are made from can have a significant impact on the survival of growth of those plants. The right pot can assist the plants to thrive, while the wrong pot or planter could hinder the growth of certain plants, cacti and also succulents. So follow this guide to using the most apt containers and pots for plants in your garden.

Use Terracotta Pots

terracotta pots

People that have had succulents for a fair amount of time tend to go for terracotta pots as it is a porous material and allows water to drain away through it. In many respects, it is one of the best materials to use for pots and other containers.

Perhaps if you live in an area prone to long, really hot and dry summers. The good thing with terracotta is that allows plenty of air to get to the plants, and water flows easily through it. You will need to water the plants more in warm weather. If you are located in a dry and humid place, then these are the ideal planters to use.

Unglazed ceramic planters

unglazed ceramic

Now unglazed pots are another option to consider as planters. As these are made from ceramics, these are like terracotta without the breathable attribute. In that respect, they are better pots for arid conditions as you do not have to water the plants as often.

Just like unglazed terracotta pots can be heavy to move and are !liable to crack it exposed to excess levels of heat.

Porcelain and glazed ceramic planters

porcelain and glazed ceramics

Now porcelain and glazed ceramic pots may be more decorative than other types of pots, yet they need more preparation for your plants. These planters are best when used indoors as the elements could harm their colors. It is sensible to dry out all the soil in such pots before you attempt to water the plants in each pot.

Glass pots

glass pots

Now glass pots are similar to glazed ceramic planters, the main difference being that they come without water holes. It means that you should avoid giving plants excessive amounts of water as it will not drain away.

These pots look pretty, and some people take advantage of glass being clear to put the succulents in colored sand.

Resin and plastic planters

Resin and plastic planters

Plastic pots used to look so cheap and flimsy, yet some of the new ones seem the part. Most of the time when you buy plants and succulents the shop supplies them with plastic or resin pots. Plastic pots have the benefits of being relatively cheap and also of being light.

It makes it easier to move plants around and to water them. You will need to water plants regularly.

Concrete planters

concrete planters

These kind of pots are right if you have designed your garden. If you can make molds, then you can have real pots designed and created by you. Just make sure there is a hole to drain the water away.

Wooden planters

wooden planters

Now some people like the look of wooden planters for their plants. It is easy to make your planters from spare pieces of wood or driftwood. Just remember to line the bottom of the planter and to paint or varnish it. Without lining or waterproofing, the planters will rot and possibly harm the plants. 

Stone pots and containers

Stone pots and containers

Stone pots and cStone containers are either natural stone, or stone mixed with fiberglass, generally only the price tag will show the difference. The completely natural stone will be heavier and cost you more. It can look perfect displaying plants in stone, though do bear in mind that stone can change color over time.

Hanging Baskets / Wall Mounted Baskets

Hanging Baskets / Wall Mounted Baskets

These baskets are a different way of displaying plants and succulents. Hanging and wall mounted baskets come in a wide range of shapes and sizes with an equally wide range of prices. Baskets can look attractive when presented in different ways.

If you prefer to have succulents in your baskets, it is better that you do not go for self-watering ones as that could lead to the plants being over watered.

Self Watering Containers

Generally, this kind of pot is not ideal for succulents or cacti as these can end up being ruined by too much water. This type of pot is better bets for plants, which need more water, especially if you do not remember to water that often.

Pick plants to suit your taste.

Pick plants to suit your taste.

It is you that will look at plants the most so pick the types you like the most. There is a great variety available, so you could even experiment a little bit as well.

Do not forget…
Before you select the plants and the pots double check that there is a drainage hole in each container.

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