Guides

One of the joys of the summer garden is slicing up a cucumber straight off the vine and savoring that first crisp, cool bite. They are very easy to grow and are very prolific. Planted in a section of the garden that receives full sun and has an evenly moist, fertile soil, success in growing cucumbers is almost guaranteed.

Crunchy cucumbers, fresh from the garden are in a league of their own, so if you’re wondering whether to grow them or not, the answer should be a resounding ‘yes’!

Starting Cucumbers

Cucumbers can be started indoors from seed, either purchased or saved and harvested from previous plants, in peat pots or small flats and transplanted to the garden a couple of weeks thereafter but only when all danger of frost has passed.

Choose your Variety

Cucumber varieties can be broken into two distinct camps: pickling cucumbers and slicing cucumbers. Types of cucumber have their own different varieties, though fresh cucumbers are most often slicing cucumbers.

Where to Plant Cucumbers

When planting cucumbers, choose a site that has adequate drainage and fertile soil. Good soil will have plenty of organic matter, such as compost. Adding compost to the soil will help get your cucumbers off to a good start, and applying organic fertilizer, such as manure, will help give the plants nutrients during growth. Start your cucumbers indoors

Start your cucumbers indoors

If you want to harvest early, start your plants indoors a month before the last spring frost date. Cucumber seeds indoors will sprout with proper care, so be sure to provide air circulation and soil moisture to your small gardens.  If you want an early start on the season, it’s worth the risk to start a few cucumber plants indoors in peat pots about two or three weeks before setting out.

Build a Trellis

There’s no better way to grow vining cucumbers than on cucumber support. Without one, they’ll happily scramble over the ground but there are quite a few soil-borne diseases that can affect the plants. Not to mention slugs and other critters that might want a taste.  Cucumbers like to vine so you can trellis them to lift the fruit off of the soil, making your garden neat and pretty.

Give Them Sunlight and Good Soil

For the best-tasting fruit and optimum yields, grow plants in a sunny spot and in warm, fertile, and well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Raised beds are ideal. Cucumbers require a soil pH between 6 and 7. Wait to sow seeds or set out transplants until after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees.

Fertilize Your Cucumber Plants

After the cucumber plants have produced blossoms, it may be beneficial to apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. An all-purpose water-soluble fertilizer will work fine. You can also use a balanced granular fertilizer.  Cucumbers thrive in light, friable soil. Several inches of organic matter worked into the soil prior to planting helps achieve that goal.

Reduce the Weeds

Cucumbers are sensitive to weed overgrowth, as weeds can cause crowding, which reduces airflow. Certain types of weeds can also harbor the dreaded cucumber beetle. Mulching the cucumber bed will help keep weeds down while keeping the soil moist.

Harvest Often

The more you harvest, the more fruit your healthy plants in your vegetable garden will produce.  Plants will be more productive if they are harvested often. Harvest cucumbers daily when they are six inches long, three inches long for pickling cucumbers.

AVOID BITTER CUCUMBERS

You can cut out the section of the plant that is producing bitter cucumbers, move the plant to an area with more even temperature, or you can work hard to water evenly and regularly.

Pineapple is a tasty fruit that makes a sweet, healthy snack. It can assist with digestion and improving a person’s immune system. Pineapple can also aid in weight loss and help to prevent certain types of cancer.

People sometimes have a difficult time determining whether or not pineapple is ripe. Their spikes, thick skin and sharp leaves can make an attempt intimidating. However, it’s pretty easy to tell if a pineapple is ready to eat.

All you need to do is look for a few basic things:

1. The Feel

Don’t be afraid to pick up a pineapple and inspect it. Feeling the pineapple is one way to help you figure out if it’s ripe. If the pineapple feels somewhat soft when you lift it, it should be just fine to consume.

2. The color

When we think of pineapples, most of us are accustomed to a yellow or greenish-yellow color. Pineapples change in color as they ripen. They go from a gray or green color to a vibrant yellow. Pineapples don’t tend to ripen very much after they’ve been picked.

Generally speaking, a pineapple is most ripe, the more yellow its exterior color is. A good pineapple should be yellow consistently throughout from side to side and top to bottom.

3. The smell

Another way to tell if a pineapple is ripe enough is the good old smell test. Turn the pineapple around and smell its base. A ripe pineapple should have a beautiful, fresh, sweet smell.

If the pineapple’s scent is pleasing, it’s probably ripe enough to eat. Just make sure that you also inspect the surface and color to be sure. A pineapple can smell sweet but may not necessarily be safe to eat.

What to Avoid:

Here are a few warning signs to inform you that pineapple is past its prime:

1. A rock-hard exterior. If the pineapple feels hard as a rock or is only soft in a few spots, it’s probably past its prime. Time to move on to another one.
2. A green, gray or orange color. If the pineapple is primarily green or gray, it’s not ripe enough. On the other hand, if it’s mostly orange, it’s too ripe.
3. A fermented smell. If the pineapple smells like vinegar or has a fermented kind of smell, it’s too far gone. It may be fine to use in combination with other elements in meat tenderizer or fruit smoothies, but fermented pineapple by itself can be very toxic to humans.
4. A mushy feel. If the surface of the pineapple is too soft, it’s likely overripe. The pineapple has probably been sitting out for too long, and may not be safe to eat.

There’s no better way to grow vining cucumbers than on cucumber support. Without one, they’ll happily scramble over the ground but there are quite a few soil-borne diseases that can affect the plants. Using a cucumber trellis can help improve your plants and keep them healthy and productive. Though you can purchase ready-made cucumber support, it’s easy to make one yourself. All you need for this garden project is a heat-treated pallet, a couple of posts and baling twine.

Follow the steps below to build your own cucumber trellis.

1. Prepare a trellis.

If you can, trellis your vines. This keeps the fruit clean and saves space. A 12- to 18-inch diameter cage made from 4- or 5-foot welded wire fencing or hog wire will support 2 or 3 vines. The wire is easy for the tendrils of climbing cucumbers to grab as the plant grows.

2. Train the plants up the string

• Just run hang a line of string from something towards the ground and as the cucumber plant grows, wind it firmly around the string.  They support each other. Like a hotdog and mustard.
• The other key to string training is to remove the lower, unhealthy leaves. 

Don’t worry, training cucumbers on a trellis isn’t hard. To train cucumbers to grow vertically, you can gently straighten the unruly vines, and attach them to their support.

3. How often should Cucumbers be watered?

• An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering and warmth.  The main care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need at least one inch of water per week (or more, if temperatures are sky-high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.

• Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t encourage leaf diseases that can ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.

4. Harvesting the fruit

• If you are harvesting pickling cucumbers to make sweet pickles or gherkins, harvest them when they are about two inches long. If you plan to make dill pickles, a good rule of thumb is to harvest when the cucumbers are three to four inches long. About a month before the first expected frost in your area, it’s a good idea to pinch off any remaining blossoms on your cucumber plants. This encourages the remaining fruits to mature more quickly before the cold weather kills them.

Growing cucumbers on a trellis are easy, and there are lots of great benefits. Not only will trellising cucumbers save a ton of space in your garden, but your plants will also be healthier, prettier, and harvesting will be a snap too!

We, humans, are hard-wired to seek out more straightforward ways of doing things; short-cuts and quick-fixes, the little things that save much time and make our lives easier. Having plants do not usually require a lot of attention or effort; but have you ever found yourself wondering what to do with your plants ahead of a trip away from home? They’re like pets, just quieter and cleaner – but we can’t bring them on tour with us, and we can’t ask a family member to plant-sit.

This article may have everything you need – a list of 15 self-watering pots. They are simple to make, and many can water your plants for up to 7 whole days – so you can enjoy a week-long vacation and need not worry about returning home to wilted plants!

1. Crescent TruDrop

The Crescent TruDrop is for those of us who prefer a trendier plant pot. It comes in a traditional shape, and there are three sizes to choose from, along with seven different neutral colors including slate and mocha, so you won’t need to worry about it matching the rest of your décor!

 2. Mr. Stacky

You won’t need to compromise on space or variety when using Mr. Stacky. It’s vertically tiered and employs a trickle-down watering system so you can be assured that all of your plants are getting what they need. With just one of these self-watering pots, you can hold up to 12 plants.

3. Self Watering Bucket Planter

Top watering can be slow, and it can be challenging to get enough water into the container, and down to the roots, however, this double bucket adaptation supplies more soil for the roots than a lot of other containers can. There is also plenty of water available – a PVC pipe will carry the water to the bottom of the pot, making it more easily accessible for the roots.

4. Upcycled Empty Glass Bottle

Think twice before you go to throw any old glass bottles in the trash – these can be used to make a unique self-watering pot! For every empty container you have, there is the potential for a beautiful display on a shelf or windowsill. Plastic bottles are also an option if you don’t fancy the task of cutting the grass – but the glass bottles do tend to be more durable and reusable.

5. Cascada

The Cascada planter is perfect if you’re looking to create a beautiful flower arrangement. It consists of one main planter, with several smaller openings situated around it – get creative!

6. Self Watering Standard Planter Conversion

These planters can be used to begin the growing stage of some of your favorite plants, or you could keep the plants in there and let them grow out of it. The larger the container is, then the more seedlings you can add to the planter and nurture.

7. Wicking Bed

Amazing planter for preserving water and ensuring your plant is provided with everything it needs. The wicking bed is a straightforward construct that’s easy to put together – you won’t need to worry about having a garden with this planter; it can be used entirely indoors.

8. Vegetable Planter Box with Trellis.

Spacious and mobile, this planter is big enough to hold numerous mid-sized plants, or if you’d prefer, a mixture of short and vining plants. If you have a protected growing area, then this planter would be ideal for a patio area. It’s also on wheels so if you decided to rehome it. You could do so with ease.

9. Recycled Bottle Watering Globes

You could use a larger bottle, for example, a wine bottle, to make this planter – the larger the container, the more water for your plants while you’re away. This planter requires you to place several small holes into the bottle, and once you’ve filled the container with water, put it firmly into the soil. The water will feed out of the small holes at a steady pace so your plants will not go thirsty!

 10. Self Watering Cage Planter

Individual plants, such as tomatoes and beans need a bit of support to help them stay upright as they grow – it can be challenging to find a self-watering planter that can provide this support, but this one is perfect and does the job.

11. Wooden Box Self Watering Planters

If you’ve had a clear-out recently and found any old scraps of wood from an abandoned project, then you have just what you need to make this planter. The use of the wood adds a rustic feel, and they look lovely on a patio or decking.

12. Self Watering Bucket and Styrofoam Cup

You’ve already learned to hang onto your used bottles, now learn to utilize unused plastic buckets! Two plastic buckets and a styrofoam cup can make a cheap and efficient self-watering pot and can be much fun to make!

 13. Downspout Planter

Use rainwater and your guttering system to nourish your plants! Place your planters around the downspouts of your guttering and create a self-watering plant pot.

 14. Round Self-Watering Planter

A perfect planter for growing – it is rimmed with a full lip around the top which allows it to be picked up and transported easily. You can also tie a string around the diameter of the planter and display it on a hook to create your make-shift hanging basket.

15. Patio Planter

This self-watering pot is exactly what you’d need to add a bit of character to your kitchen window. It drains easily, so you needn’t worry about waterlogging or any damage to your plant. 

The peony is luxurious, elegant, famous, and adored by even the non-gardener.they have strength and character from spring through the end of summer. Peonies are perennial plants (perpetual and recurrent) and can survive and thrive with minimal care in the right spot and according to their preferences.

There are three forms of peonies: herbaceous (bush), tree, and Itoh (intersectional) peonies with varying types. They come in a rainbow of assorted colors and “flavors” for every set of eyes and noses. The lighter peonies are typically more fragrant than, the darker flowers.

When to plant Peonies

These lovely flowers can be planted between October and March. The bloom period varies from late spring to late summer, about six weeks before the ground freezes. Be patient with these luscious flowers as they may take two to three years to bloom for spring planted peonies.

After blooming, the peony flower will wear its glossy green leaves all summer and then turn purplish-red or gold in the fall. If you are planning to move them, you should move them when the plant is dormant; dig around the roots, disturbing as little as possible and transplant them to their new home. Peonies can even be divided to make new plants when you lift them. Be sure to cut them cleanly with at least three clear eyes (stem buds) on each section.

Where to plant Peonies

Peonies will flourish almost anywhere in the country. They’re partial to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8 (there are planting zones 1-11; each growing zone is 10°F warmer (or colder) in an average winter than the adjacent zone. It is easy to find your USDA Hardiness Zone on the internet with your zip code.)

Regardless of your area, the following are tips for successful site choice:

• Place in full sun or light shade.

• Choose well-drained soil.

• Ensure soil is nutrient rich.

• Peonies need at least 400 hours of temperatures below 40 degrees to bloom in the spring.

• If sited incorrectly, deep roots make transplanting mature plants difficult or impossible.

• Provide shelter from strong winds.

• Peonies do not enjoy being transplanted.

• Tree peonies need to be planted deeper. Unless they are grafted, plant peonies so that the crown (where the roots meet the stem) is 2 to 4 inches deep, using the same soil mixture as described above. If the plant has been grafted (check the label), plant it so that the “graft union” (the part of the plant where the grafted top is joined to the root stock) is 4 to 6 inches below the soil line.

How to plant Peonies

Now that you have found the perfect time and place for your beautiful flowers, you can trust that moving and adjusting them into their new home is just as easy. Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with 3-5 eyes (small reddish buds like potato eyes); they eventually elongate and become the plant’s stems. When choosing potted peonies, you should look for healthy specimens without leaf spots or weak-looking stems.

Space peonies 3 to 4 feet apart for good air circulation. They should be thoroughly watered, and they should not be planted deep into the ground/soil. Make sure that there are in soil that drains well. Check this early to confirm and end needless worries.

Dig a hole that is about 2 feet deep and 2 feet across. Add organic material in the planting hole to create the best possible living situation for your new love. If you are planting a container-grown herbaceous peony (the kind you would buy in a pot), place it in the hole and keep the top of the root ball level with the soil.

Keep in mind:   

• Peonies enjoy “snow days”l in the winter just as our children do. So, keep them close to the soil’s surface because peonies need these cold temperatures to attain dormancy (nap like a bear; snug as a bug) and happily set buds.         

 • Peony blooms can grow to be sizable and substantial.          

• The stems are prone to droop or drag after it rains. The best solution for this issue is to place a peony cage (use metal supports with rings for the flowers to grow up through and offer support) over each plant in the spring before the leaves start to emerge.          

• Peonies are not able to store up energy for next year’s blooms without having existing leaves.          

• If you are cutting flowers, don’t remove more than half of the blooms.          

• Make sure to leave enough stem with many leaves on the plant.         

 • Interestingly, ants will help peonies bloom. The ants are attracted to the nectar that the flower bud produces. They will climb up the plant and help open the buds to get to the nectar that is inside.   

•  The peony will bloom without the ants’ assistance, but they help the process along. Ants also help the peonies by keeping others, damaging insects away.

How to enjoy Peonies

These flowers will easily convert you from the average neighbor to a seemingly professional gardener. They are abundant and make beautiful sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. They are fragrant, so you and the flower will attract the envious. They can be paired with many variations of itself and other types of flowers. They require little care as long as they are appropriately welcomed and considerately. They are comfortable but not wimpy; beautiful but not pretentious; welcoming but need their own space and food. Enjoy these new family members and celebrate their accommodating nature with pride and love!

There is nothing better than the looking at the herald of Spring: gorgeous and fragrant Lilac Flowers; not only are these fun to grow, but you can also enjoy these cut flowers in your home. These flowers are easy to grow and are deficient maintenance, making it easy to grow and ensuring that they will be around and healthy for a very long time. 

Lilacs have such a lovely scent, and can last decades in your garden; they grow best in the northern states and areas with cooler summers. Lilacs do not require constant watching and effort to maintain, and even the thought of these amazingly beautiful plants makes my mind go to the fun of both Spring and Summer. Lilacs are the perfect size for any garden and are especially great choices for those who want to walk into a fragrant garden or planting area. 

Lilacs are durable and require little to no maintenance, making it easy to grow; especially if you don’t have a green thumb. They can grow anywhere from 5 to 15 feet tall, depending on the strain and variety of the plant you choose. Although these plants are great for attracting butterflies, it is also important to note that they will also attract bees; although that is not necessarily a bad thing.

Planting

Although Lilac plants are hearty and easy to grow, it is important to start them off strong with a good foundation. You will want to make sure that they are planted in fertile, humus-rich and well-drained soil that is at a PH near 7.0. If you have doubts about your soil or think it is a poor condition, you can add compost to enrich the ground for your Lilacs. 

Generally, it is a good idea to plant Lilacs in an area of your garden or property that receives full sunlight; meaning that your Lilac shrubs and flowers will soak up at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight a day. Failing to give them the sun they desperately need may result in the flowers not blooming in the way that you would like them to. It is also important to note that Lilacs do not like too much water, and will not bloom unless the soil under their roots has proper drainage. 

Before planting your Lilac, you will want to spread out the roots, making sure that the hole that you have dug is considerably larger than the container or pot that the Lilac bush came in. Deciding how deep to plant your Lilac has some conflicting views; some gardeners suggest digging a hole that is 2 inches deeper than the container, while others claim it is best to make it level with the ground. It would help if you planted the Lilac either in Spring or Fall, although out of the two options, it is recommended that they are planted in the Fall. 

Transplanting Lilac plants is also an easy feat, and the process is similar to the steps mentioned above; you will want to make sure that the roots are spread out and have adequate room to grow. You will want to work in some topsoil around the roots and make sure that nothing is constricting their growth, with proper drainage. There is no amount of topsoil that is too much, and I prefer to make a ‘mud’ with topsoil and water before transplanting any Lilac plant. 

How to Water Your Lilacs

After you have planted your Lilacs, you will want to check in on them often to make sure that they are assimilating to their new surroundings. You will want to water whenever the top inch or so of soil feels dry to the touch. Generally, watering will only need to be done once or twice a week. To make sure you are watering enough without drowning the plants, a good practice is to count to 10 while watering. 

Because Lilacs don’t like too much water, you will want to find the right balance of moisture when watering. One thing that I have done in the past that seems to work well is to do a finger test, push slightly on the soil surrounding the actual plant. If it looks too spongy, skip a day of watering. However, it seems at all dry it is the time to give the plant some more water. 

Pruning Lilacs

Deadheading dead blooms on your Lilacs will not only help to maintain the live blooms but also encourage the plant to replace the dead flowers with live buds. It is a good idea to prune your Lilac bushes as soon as they start to bloom; failure to do and pruning too late in the season can remove vital parts of the plant. A good rule of thumb is to start pruning if and when you notice the Lilac’s flower clusters getting smaller. 

Lilac bushes can live up to 75 years or more because these plants are extremely hardy and resilient. One problem that growers do have, however, is that Lilacs can tend to become overgrown. It just means that you will want to make sure to keep on top of their growth, and prune them or cut them back as they grow. Trimming will not only keep them looking great throughout the years, but will also help to encourage future growth of the flowers.